Hurtigruten Postscript

So we have been home for a few weeks now and I wanted to let all of you know that we successfully negotiated a full refund from Hurtigruten since the trip that we purchased - the gourmet Gilde cruise was not available.

We both thank Hurtigruten and will plan another trip on the ship sometime in the future. Our quest for the northern lights continues

Kirkenes - end of the Viking Quest

We have docked in Kirkenes - the last port of our cruise. I am sad to report that Aurora did not visit us, no matter how long or loud or how many others we engaged in the conjuring. It was just too damned cloudy. We wandered the deck last night, bundled up and armed with cognac, and though the sky seemed clear and filled with stars and the night was beautiful, comme toujours, it remained quietly black. However, all in all we are quite pleased with our journey.
Last night the Actic buffet was a feast of crustaceans - king crab, blue crab, many types of mussels, langoustines, prawns, shrimp, stuffed crabs, really a fabulous spread that also included reindeer stew and roast reindeer. We have come to know most of the passengers, at least, by face, and it has been fun bidding them farewell and bon voyage as most of them return south from whence we came.
We will spend the day in Kirkenes and then take a late flight to Oslo, then our flights home. It has gone very fast and now that we have sea legs, the earth appears to toss and turn. Perhaps just onemore Viking will cross our path before we travel the seas by air.

Far North

It's Saturday and we have reached the north cape. We opted to stay aboard as the tours are a bit too planned out for us. Yesterday was a cable car ride up a VERY steep hill with a view of Tromso. The car was rickety but the operator looked confident. The trees are turning colors here and the locals consider it the winter season already. Ski season start October 1.

The Arctic Cathedral there is quite strange. The architect has build a simple but dramatic building. Let's see if I can find a link. Ah good

The towns and cities are getting sparse up here. There is order to Norway but of course a lot of the towns this far north were destroyed during world war II so they have been rebuild in the last 60 years.

There are many retirees on this trip - they travel all over the world. I'm surrounded by local children at the moment. I think the boat is the highlight of their winter existence. You all know how much I am enjoying that. But I've got Van blasting in my ears so all is well in Maryworld.

What a odd two weeks we have chosen to be away. The Brits are so amused by Sara Palin. I wish it was as funny as it sounds.

Nice the see the market close so high on Friday.

Glacier excursion by day, Northern Lights by night

Pics added

We had a great excursion today, transferring from the ship to a fast ferry we skitted through a fjord to a glacier. There we disembarked and wandered 'round the glacier lake. We then travelled further to a small fishing village with only 47 inhabitants on the island.
As I write this we are sailing through the most magical island peaks Lofoten - or close to that.
Meanwhile, excitement is building as Aurora Borealis is anticipated this evening 'round 10 pm. This is a fabulous scenic voyage - the light in clouds at sunset seems to decorate planes of mountains so that it seems the light raidates from within.

Home of the Viking King

Zowie - Alesund is a beautiful city, buildings painted with floral motifs cobblestone streets, hills climbing up from the water as quaint and charming as can be - renowned as an art nouveau city. We wander the streets, exploring the architectural surprises that present themselves.

Next day, Trondheim - the first capitol. Nidaros, the amazing cathedral and burial site of Saint Olav, the home of the viking king Olav Tryggvason - a major place in the trilogy Kristin Lavransdatter - It is an amazing cathedral. The city has a beautiful painted wharf in the old town, delightful bridges - Another fabulous Norwegian city and old viking stronghold.

Weather is fabulous. Aurora Borealis was spotted on previous cruise - we are hopeful! keeping our announcement radio on all night. Just passing a wind farm in the middle of the sea.

Is this our Cruise???

Happy to report that the wristband is working great and I have no need for seasickness meds. We approached our first meal on our gourmet cruise with excitement only to find picked beets and bottled olives and a very bland meat dish. Something was askew. After dining we proceeded to the purser to find out what the story is and sure enough, the cruise we booked had been cancelled and we not notified. No gourmet meals, no cooking classes, no Grieg, in fact, no orchestra on departing let alone throughout the cruise - just a duo playing cover tunes and normal fare for cruises re: dining.

No denying the natural beauty and we are thoroughly enjoying our voyage - but it is not the voyage we painstakingly planned, chose or committed to.

Are you a Viking?

Mary has taken to asking this question which amuses me no end. However, when we saw a man dressed in viking garb walking down the cobblestone streets in Bergen, she did not. Meanwhile, Bergen was a beautiful city, homes built into the steep hills above the city and home to a living viking city. There we had dinner and caught a jazz trio the night we arrived and walked the shopping streets the next day before boarding the Polaryis, our ship. The local fish soup is a sort of cream based bouillabase with a hint of nutmeg and no shells. Very tasty, perhaps more like a bisque.

A visit to Hakons hall was rich in viking vibe. We boarded the ship 'round about 6:30 for an early dinner and departure.

Postscript: If we cannot find vikings, we will become them...We have taken to wearing viking hats.

The train to the fjords - komfort car - Found Viking

No mutiny on board tho there was no stop to breathe deep beauty and no lack of beauty to be inhaled. Sparsely populated, the mountains are thick with evergreens, Christmas trees, Norwegian wood - steeply stacked to drop in the bluest water - blue enough to taste the cold. Tunnels create split scenes - like frames of film - teasing with a glimpse, a glimpse - the light reveals another taste then in the tunnels we fly to emerge in a deeper gorge a higher mountain with a lone farm chartreuse with new grass, warm with a red house, sheep, a few horses.
Across from us sits Julestein - my spelling may be an atrocity - he says to call him "Joe" He guides us through the country, pointing out the blue ice glacier, telling us where to look for reindeer, what to see. Tells us of hunting deer with his daughter and the stories one shares on a 7 hour train ride. He is a very nice train companion and as we are looking closely at his face, Mary ventures the question, "Are you a Viking?" And, Yes!! he is - it is in his ancestry - the quest is fruitful! We will post a video so you can meet our viking too.
Postscript: No matter where you are in the world, train food gains nothing from the exterior beauty. It sucks.

The Viking Museum

Pics to start

It's starting to become a blur...hop on-hop of led us to 2 fabulous sites before the national theatre. Vigeland - an amazing sculpture park themed n the human condition in all its ages and stages which is breathtaking in scope and execution. There we wandered the gardens to the clasical guitar strumming of a street musician among the fabulous park.
Next stop - Viking Museum. Truly thrilling. The intricacy of the carvings on sleighs and wagons, boat masts and scabbards -One of the found objects in the largest unearthed ship, was a beautiful basket filled with wild apples. It has set us off on an apple eating craze and they are delicious and not Delicious.

Olso Observations CHECK OUT LINK FOR PICS

Mary Here

Link to Vigeland Pictures



Well we made it to Bergen and the train ride as very nice. We met a man from Voss who filled us in on a lot of Norwegian history. He lived in Voss and was returning from a weekend with friends from college - a 19 year reunion. His name is something we could not pronounce very well so he asked us to call him Joe. He is featured in the train videos.

I enjoyed Oslo more than Copenhagen. The Viking museum and the Vigeland Park with the huge statues were awesome.

There is very little news from the US here and the people of Norway are less comfortable with their English then the Danes are. The Danes switch into English without blinking.

I'm going to spend the rest of our online time trying to uploand the pictures now. Will post a link.

Cheers

Hedda you bitch

Saw Hedda last night - deliciously evil little vixen - staged very simply - Berthe and Aunt Julianne eliminated as well as furniture, flowers and what have you. Picture a thick red soft oval upon which to lie or sit with a forest like scrim. So happy I re-read the play or surely sleep would have taken me embarrassingly by act one's conclusion - minimal action punctuated mostly by smoking. Very well done though and very glad to have come. Ba reserved us beautiful seats and gave us a nice discount as well.
Afterwards we had dinner at the akker bryggge - a pier area with restaurants and bars and pleasant walking area. Sleep commands me now so we will blog on Oslo and vikings come tomorrow and the incredible train ride (hint..I think we found a viking).
Having a bit of trouble posting photos & vid clips. Stay tuned.

Crown jewels & clean hair for Oslo

Relaxed day - we set off to explore CPH after checking out and storing luggage with a thought to the little mermaid and Rosenberg slot - home of the crown jewels - A little Italian lunch and then a dazzling display of centuries of jewels - in crowns, rings, dubbing swords, earrings and necklaces and garters and brooches and...you get the picture. A truly magnificent collection. No time for the little mermaid. Somehow the plane left and hour earlier than we thought so it was good we were early - an easy train ride from the central station which is a short walk from the absalon. Also had a rewarding visit to Royal Copenhagen store where Mary found a perfect coffee set for her new digs and a perfect small indulgence at a local salon- shampooing. The flight was short and smooth and we are now @ Gabelshus in Oslo which is nothing short of luxury compared to Absalon annex. So far, Oslo is much dressier and very stylish. Had another fabulous dinner just down the street from the hotel where both breakfast and a light supper are included along with wireless. Our meals were fabulous but the ending of cocount ice cream was amazing. Need to remember the amuse bouche for Melody at noma.
Postscript: while the hairdresser was trying to dry my hair, every time the dryer got close to my head it would stop working - away from me, on, close to my head, off - what can I say? we laughed heartily @ the oddness of it all tho me and electricity...?

Tivoli Gardens

A true park of amusements. We went during “crazy hours” summer late hours. Our clocks are not totally acclimated so we sort of missed dinner, had a good nap, went to play @ Tivoli. Oh, yes, we went on the oldest roller coaster in the park and it was a thrill- we forewent the photo finish of our screaming faces, you know the shot, tho’ it was briefly considered for the blog. Had a beer by the lake and watched a laser light show play upon the water. Band shell w/big band playing Cole Porter as we entered the park. Lanterns, taj majal and a very delightful animal merry go round where giraffes and elephants had to be mounted by ladder. Hot air ballon ferris wheel and lights, pumpkins and pagodas – a very bad meal but what could follow nomo? Bicycle rickshaw to the hotel – fabulous, cool night full of lights and amusements

Baggallini Danger

The fabulous compactness and endless compartments, zips and pockets of the baggallini, while totally fabulous, allowed me to labor under the illusion that I lost a credit card. Good news is that I found it in one of the more secret compartments but not before calls were initiated for the cancellation progress–thankful for “hold” the call was discontinued before it began, the credit card was found and all lived happily everafter in Hans Christian Anderson land

Elsinore - Hamlet's Castle

This morning, we shook off the remnants of last night's wine pairings to have a hotel breakfast and get on the train to Elsinore - just outside of CPH. A lovely ride to Helsingnr which has just the sort of charm that one seeks in a european town. The castle, Kronborg - is very impressive and looks out to te coast of Sweden. Excellent guide for the 1st part but the 2nd guide left us standing too long - yes, a talking head. So we ditched the tour and continued on our own. The elderly couple and Asian family that were with us beofre, followed us and Mary had had enough so I became the defacto tour guide...bad idea. I will not wait for those who walk slowly so I sped ahead and waved to tghe others who followed a ways behind. At the end of the great hall was a small white round room that remindeed on of a chapel or meditation room with a window that looked out to the sea - a small archer type opening. As I gazed out, an incredible sailing vessel came grandly down the water. I yelped with glee, my fellow tourists came quickly and we all watched this amazing teaching vessel sail pat the castle. As i heeaded toward the exit, the security woman and I chatted briefly and I told her about the ship. She led me back in ssayiong ah yes this is a good paintin - pointing to a painting of almost he same ship. And I said, No it's real - come look. She got very excited and opened up the drapes and a full castle window, The air came streaming in, and we all watched the magnificent ship sail by. They use these to train sailors. Then on to the Louisiana museum ... this building and grounds are absoltely phenomenal. unfortuantely, fatigue has claimed us and we did not spend a great dal of time there. however, I feel I must mention the stone sculpture garden sitting amongst the ivy - all rough hewn animals and the bats are absolute delight! time runs out on the comp.

First impressions and a travesty of travel

Travel from LAX to Copenhagen was lesss than desirable¨-- huricane Ike engendered a 2 hour delay which made me miss my connection to Copenhagen. After running at full speed (yelling passing move right or die) through Newark airport - the complete length and breadth of continentl's terminal and having such a food and sleep deprivation meltdown that I actually demanded help of people who were in no way capable of helping me, I finally made it to the final boarding call for a flight to Amsterdam where I would have a 2 hour layover before meeting Mary in CPH - where she was now flyng to. In fact, had our flight not left early I could quite possibly haave made it - granted I would've had to bang on the door and forced them to allow me to board. When I finally arrived, Mary was waiting for me and after 24 hours of travel, we took a little nap.
NOW, the adventure begins! We went for an overambitious walk of the city, given our exhaustion, so then headed for our destination NOMA and sat at a little cafe in the Nyhavn area - waterfront - very charming. This was an incredible meal - and I think Mary has shared this.

Day One Copenhagen

Well we arrived albiet on different flights. Janis missed the connection in Newark and arrived via Amsterdam 3 hours later. She has some funny stories about the Amsterdam airport though.

It's 730 am and J is still asleep so I thought I would take this time to post my first impressions.

The Danes are straight forward.... no nonsense in this country. We are staying near the central train station so there are some colorful characters. Most things are listed in English so it is easy to figure things out.

They still smoke here but most cafes and bars have outside seating so we just stay outside. There is a moist feeling in the air, the way most European cities feel to me.

Had to cancel our lunch at Noma since we arrived so late but they accomadated us for dinner. What a dinner. Michael, have you ever had vinegar powder? Way flavorful.

Noma is out of the way inside a old warehouse district that has been converted to housing and hip stores. I don't have anything to compare it to in NYC. (There are some Danish letters showing up on the screen - forgive the grammatical erros becasue I like how they look).

So the first thing they serve us is smoked quail eggs as an amuse bouche. But they arrive covered up inside a large shell so we have no idea what to do until the waiter opens the dish for us. I never had smoked eggs or quail eggs before. A new favorite.

There were four - snacks- as they called them. The second was a thin waffer like sandwich of a rye crips, chicken skin with a plain cheese like filling. Crazy good.

A bowl of organic radishes with the greens on and even a bit a dirt that we were assured was edible. It did clean my palate.

Next came the rice waffer with wild herbs, cheese and vinegar powder. Simple and delicious.

Only then did we get a menu from which to order dinner.

3 courses -

Mary

Tartar and wood sorrell with aromatic juniper and tarragon
Musk Ox and verbena, milk skin and small beets
Blackberry Concoction

Janis
Ashes and leeks, mussels and king crab
Lobster and pickled beetroot, onions and berries
Nordic Cheese Plate

I am copying all this off a nice little menu that they printed for us as a souvenier.

Wine pairings for all..... I never thought much of Reislings but we had two good ones. the best was 2007 Riesling Kabinett Trocker

Vadim, you would have loved the tartar dish - thin raw beef , topped with dandilion greens. I was encouraged to eat this with my hands by dipping the beef and greens into rye seeds and a salty mousse. Just perfect

The chef worked at The French Laundry in California. He is single handedly raising the bar for Danish cuisine. We could see into the kitchen and it was quite a show.

So it's morning now and I must wake Janis. We are off to the castle that Elsinore from Hamlet is based upon. We have the trains down so it should be an easy trip. The plan is to eat simply today, perhaps dinner at Tivoli gardens which looks really cool and is very closeby our hotel.

No pictures to post yet.

Baggallinis

Fabulous little zip-out pouch bags - an extra bag or backpack

Getting Tickets for Ibsen Festival

It was quite a maze to actually find a way to get tickets in English - all information was in English until purchasing - then all was Norwegian. Somehow I managed to contact the festival director's personal cell phone while she was on vacation. We had a charming conversation and she is holding seats for us. I am trying to add a link to the festival but the best I can do is the URL below.

http://www.ibsenfestivalen.no/Ibsenfestivalenno/English/filestore/Program_Ibsenfestivalen_ENGELSK.pdf

Hedda Gabler

Re-reading Hedda Gabler, as that is the play we will see at the National Theatre from the Ibsen Festival in Oslo...in Norwegian. Very excited to hear the play performed in its native language.

Copenhagen Links

That's Copen..HAY..gen, not Copen.. HOG..gen

http://www.explore-copenhagen.com/

Here is one for Meg http://www.explore-copenhagen.com/1083/Dos_and_Don/'t.html

For the tourist in me http://www.explore-copenhagen.com/876/Key_Attractions.html

Hurtigruten - MS Polarlys

Some of you have asked me about the ship that we are taking.


Web Cam for MS Polarlys http://www.hurtigruten.com/en/default.aspx?side_id=1429&id=23#MS+Polarlys

Check out Planet Hurtigruten http://www.planethurtigruten.com/

Janis joins the blog

Joining the blog as we ready for our Scandavian adventure. Can't quite get enough bagallinis. It is down to organizing documents and counting days. Copenhagen's tourism site sent us a welcome listing activities during our stay. Excitement builds!

Planning and more planning

And so it begins. Well we have been planning this for a while. I must say that we have put together a very nice itinerary.

Copenhagen - 3Days
Oslo - 2 Days
Train to Bergen
Bergen for a day
Aboard the MS Polarysis for 6 days
Home to New York and Los Angeles

Ok - this could work